Thursday, May 28, 2009

JD 3010 Engine Rebuild #2

I removed the main bearing caps and checked the main bearing bolts to be sure they have not strecthed. I blow air through all of the oil passages to be sure they are not plugged up. Sometimes you will find one plugged up with crud, especially, if you a major engine failure with chewed up bearings. This was not the case with this engine. The other thing that plugs up passage ways in block and other things is a Dirt Dauber. They can ruin an engine overhaul. Each time I stop on the engine I will cover everything up. This keeps dust out and most of the Dirt Dauber out. Each time I start on the engine the first thing I look for is traces of Dirt Daubers. They will leave the hole plugged with a white plug. You have to clean them out and clean all of the dirt out of the hole.
The first picture shows the main bearings in the block. I put all the bearings in and put the matching bearing in the cap. These are matched sets to keep the oil clearance right.
The crankshaft also went to the machine shop to be turned and came back with the rods polished standards and the mains were turned to .010 undersized. I put the crank in the block and used Plasti Gage to check the oil clearance. If you have to much or to little clearance the engine will not live. The clearance is .0017 to .0047 mine measured .0027 to .0030 . I removed the crankshaft and greased up the bearings and reinstalled the crankshaft in the block. I use a white Lithium grease to coat the bearings. This gives them so lubrication while the engine is turning and building oil pressure. It will also stay in the engine if the engine sets for 5 or 6 months before being cranked.
I installed the main bearing caps and snugged them up as even as I could before torquing the caps. The main caps torque to 150 ft lbs. I torque the caps in 3 steps, 100, 125 & 150. I torque each cap and then turn the crankshaft to see how it feels. This is to make sure it is not binding the crankshaft as I tighten the crankshaft. If everything is right The crankshaft will turn as easy at 150 ft lbs as it does at 100 ft lbs of torque. And this one was right!!
The next step is putting in the pistons.
Southeast Tractor Parts, selling engine kits every day!!!

Sunday, May 24, 2009

JD 3010 Engine Rebuild

This is the JD 3010 diesel block I have mentioned in previous posts. I had sent the block the the machine shop to have it cleaned and to have cam bearings installed in the block. This is how I normally get my blocks back from the machine shop. I have been using the same machine shop since 1980. I do not know how many blocks and cranks I have sent there to get them ready to rebuild. It is always best to start with a clean block. The life of the engine depends on how clean it is when it is put together. This is called an out of frame overhaul and takes an out of frame overhaul kit with all the gaskets and front and rear seal.
More on this as I rebuild it.
Southeast Tractor Parts, Engine kits for JD Tractors!!

Monday, May 18, 2009


As some of you know, Linda and I have been rearranging the parts display area in front of the sales counter. I have a new IH 177204c91 Strawwalker that fits a late model IH 815 and 915 combines. I would sell this strawwalker for $150.00 . If you want it shipped to you it would have to be shipped by truck and the cost would be $150.00 plus whatever the truck freight company charges to get it to you. However, we get some good prices on truck freight so it might not cost as much as you think!
I also have strawwalkers for other combines.

Southeast Tractor Parts, Parts to fill your needs!

Monday, May 11, 2009

Farmall 560 CARB #4 and Govenor

I have finished assembling the carb and have it ready to mount on the tractor. I have also tore the governor apart and cleaned it out, lightened the weights so it will respond faster and I have greased it up and reassembled it. Tomorrow, I will ship it to my customer. I have touched on the high points of what has to be done toe modify a carb to make it a pulling carb, but, I have not included all my secrets. These tidbits will get you started on adding horsepower to your tractor.
My next project is to build the JD 3010 diesel engine. I am getting a spot ready so I can take pictures as I go.

Thanks, Eric

Southeast Tractor Parts, solutions to your problem.

Tuesday, May 5, 2009

Tractor Pulling 5-02-09 Saluda SC

These are some pictures from the tractor pull in Saluda SC last Saturday. It was a fair size crowd and somewhere between 25 and 30 tractors there at the pull. The ice cream stand did a booming business as it was fairly warm. After making 2 or 3 visits to the ice cream stand you would get an extra scoop for being a frequent visitor! All 3 flavors were delicious!!
I got 2 first place finishes and 1 second place finish.
This coming Saturday the tractor pull is in Lexington SC at Edmund Antique Tractor Pull.
The Farmall 560 carb is almost done. I should finish it on the next post. Hope to see all of you at the pull on Saturday.
Southeast Tractor Parts, A bad day pulling is better than a good day at work!!!!!

Friday, May 1, 2009


This is the venturi. It controls/sets the vacuum level in carb. I think is 13 inches of vacuum that all carbs are supposed to operate at for the best efficiency. Don't hold me to the accuracy of 13 inches. I could be wrong on that number. However, there is a number that is right and all the numbers off from that could show boring and stroking the engine, stuck valves, bad rings, and even manifold leaks.
This is a stock venturi for a 560 Farmall. It is a #33 . I am putting a custom made venturi in to increase air flow and horsepower. As the engine is running it pulls air through the venturi, the smaller the hole the less air and higher vacuum. When you build the engine and port and polish the head or bore and stroke the engine you increase air flow which increases the vacuum. If you have too much vacuum the carb will not work properly. The carb has to be balanced so I put in a larger venturi to reduce the vacuum and feed more air through the carb to the engine. More air more fuel= more power.
The grooves on the outside of the venturi help balance the carb. The vacuum generated for the backside of the venturi helps to set the air/fuel ratio which controls how the engine runs and idles. It takes a combination of adjusting the air/fuel ratio screw and the main jet to get the fuel set properly.
I learned what I know by working on my carbs and my assumptions about how things work may be totally wrong. I had a man build the carb for my Super MTA pulling tractor. That was the best $350 I ever spent. I had worked on my carb for about 1-1/2 years and have about 15 different venturis here that I tried and I was tuning it in, but it probably would have taken me another1-1/2 years to get it right. I looked at the carb I had built and realized I was on the right path by just not far enough along the path. Sometimes it pays to buy the experience!
Eric Benton
Southeast Tractor Parts, Better parts because of the education!