Showing posts with label carb. Show all posts
Showing posts with label carb. Show all posts

Thursday, February 10, 2011

Thursday Night!!

I am setting here listening to WSOC on the computer while I have catalogs copying in the CD Duplicator. It will copy about 75 discs per hour. I have another 88 discs to go before I finish tonight. I will have about 700 to take to the National Farm Machinery show.
One of the vendors is making a nice JD AR26625 steering wheel for a 3020 and 4020 and other tractors. They also have the black steering wheel cap and a white cap for the 1010 and 2010. The caps are about $36.00 up till now the only new cap I could find was about $65.00. This is a nice OEM quality cap and steering wheel.
I ordered a new Carburetor kit today for the zenith carb used on a lot of different tractors. It has all 3 gaskets in it to fit 3 different carbs. People call us wanting a zenith carb kit and they don't know which one it is and now I can send this one and one of the gaskets will work. It will make my life easier. And it will be priced about the same as a regular kit.
Did any of you see in the paper that Mexico had the worst freeze that they have had in 50 years!! Must be more of the global warming!!

Monday, May 11, 2009

Farmall 560 CARB #4 and Govenor

I have finished assembling the carb and have it ready to mount on the tractor. I have also tore the governor apart and cleaned it out, lightened the weights so it will respond faster and I have greased it up and reassembled it. Tomorrow, I will ship it to my customer. I have touched on the high points of what has to be done toe modify a carb to make it a pulling carb, but, I have not included all my secrets. These tidbits will get you started on adding horsepower to your tractor.
My next project is to build the JD 3010 diesel engine. I am getting a spot ready so I can take pictures as I go.

Thanks, Eric

Southeast Tractor Parts, solutions to your problem.

Friday, May 1, 2009

FARMALL 560 CARB #3


This is the venturi. It controls/sets the vacuum level in carb. I think is 13 inches of vacuum that all carbs are supposed to operate at for the best efficiency. Don't hold me to the accuracy of 13 inches. I could be wrong on that number. However, there is a number that is right and all the numbers off from that could show boring and stroking the engine, stuck valves, bad rings, and even manifold leaks.
This is a stock venturi for a 560 Farmall. It is a #33 . I am putting a custom made venturi in to increase air flow and horsepower. As the engine is running it pulls air through the venturi, the smaller the hole the less air and higher vacuum. When you build the engine and port and polish the head or bore and stroke the engine you increase air flow which increases the vacuum. If you have too much vacuum the carb will not work properly. The carb has to be balanced so I put in a larger venturi to reduce the vacuum and feed more air through the carb to the engine. More air more fuel= more power.
The grooves on the outside of the venturi help balance the carb. The vacuum generated for the backside of the venturi helps to set the air/fuel ratio which controls how the engine runs and idles. It takes a combination of adjusting the air/fuel ratio screw and the main jet to get the fuel set properly.
I learned what I know by working on my carbs and my assumptions about how things work may be totally wrong. I had a man build the carb for my Super MTA pulling tractor. That was the best $350 I ever spent. I had worked on my carb for about 1-1/2 years and have about 15 different venturis here that I tried and I was tuning it in, but it probably would have taken me another1-1/2 years to get it right. I looked at the carb I had built and realized I was on the right path by just not far enough along the path. Sometimes it pays to buy the experience!
Eric Benton
Southeast Tractor Parts, Better parts because of the education!

Wednesday, April 29, 2009

FARMALL 560 CARB #2

These are 2 of the parts that have to be modified to build a pulling carb. The hole in the seat(the top piece on the right) has to be bored out larger so more gas can get through it. If you don't make it larger, then, sometimes you will run out of gas when the tractor is under the most load at the end of the pull. After boring the needle it has to be polished on the inside so the needle will not stick closed. The needle is the piece on the top left with the black neoprene tip.
The bottom piece is the discharge tube which mounts in the well of the carb and sticks up into the bottom of the venturi. The gas is sucked up this tube by the vacuum that is created when the engine is running. I bore out the bottom 2 holes 3-5 drill sizes so more gas can be pulled into the air stream that goes into the engine.
These 2 pieces have been modified and are ready to be put in the carb.

Thats all for now!
Southeast Tractor Parts, Carbs for fun times!!